How to Convert Your Garage to Living Space

A garage conversion can add value to your property as well as additional living space to your home.

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Garage Door Conversion

A garage conversion can add value to your property as well as additional living space to your home. We take a look at what to consider when converting your garage. You can call any Kansas garage door service for help.

A well-thought out garage conversion can add as much as 10% to the value of your home. If you would be wise enough, you would know what to do with your steel garage door in Kansas after your conversion. Expect to pay between £5,000 and £8,000 for converting the average single garage, making it one of the most cost effective ways to improve your property’s resale value. An additional benefit is increased living space without incurring the costs and inconveniences of moving house.

Design and Space Planning

At five metres long by two and a half metres wide, the internal space of most garages is longer and thinner than most rooms in a house. To achieve a more natural shape, consider using stud or block walling to convert the garage into two rooms, typically a toilet, shower or storeroom.

Consider also how you plan to use the rooms, and either make some drawings yourself or get some made.

Insulation and Damp-Proofing

Insulation:

In pitched roofs, go for two layers of 150mm glass fibre quilt, one between the joists, another over as usual.

Flat roofs tend to need one layer between of rigid PUR insulation board and another below — the space in between flat roof joists however can’t be entirely filled. A 50mm air gap must be left above for ventilation. The second layer underneath will drop the ceiling height a bit. Typically 150mm deep flat roof joists will receive 100mm of PUR insulation between the joists and 50mm beneath them.

As with floors, if the ceiling height is an issue (due to smaller than 150mm deep joists allowing less insulation between) multi-foil laminate insulants can help reduce the thickness of the under layer.

Damp-proofing: The concrete floor may or may not have been cast over a damp-proof membrane (DPM). In recent decades, integral garages would normally have included a DPM and certainly the walls would have a damp-proof course (DPC). But without plaster and screed finishing to conceal them, the two elements would not meet as they would in the house. Protecting the concrete floor with a polythene or paint-on DPM and dressing it up under your new finishing to the DPC layer will ensure that damp is not a problem.

Plumbing and Wiring

Make a thorough survey of the plumbing and wiring in the house and garage. Any wall you plan to pierce for doorways or windows needs special attention. Locate the main outflows for water, and, if you plan to install a toilet, the soil outflow.

Check the garage for wiring in the walls and ceiling. Rewiring the garage for lights and electric radiators will place additional strain on the household mains, which is fused at 100 amps. An additional mains supply can be installed, with the cost varying from £500 to £20,000. This will also require the installation of a separate consumer unit.

Otherwise, locate the garage on the current consumer unit. If it doesn’t have its own miniature circuit breaker (MCB), consider replacing the consumer unit or upgrading it. If the garage is to be another habitable room in your house, its own MCB is probably enough. Consider adding at least one new 20-amp circuit.

Wiring to a detached garage can be run through an underground conduit. If it is to be a separate dwelling, a new connection may be required, depending on likely power usage; consult an electrician.